Westbound from Río Tranquilo, a smooth but narrow penetration road will eventually reach the Pacific, but at present it goes only about 60 kilometers, past Lago Bayo and the Glaciar Exploradores, an impressive but receding continental glacier that’s scoured the mountainside, leaving lateral and terminal moraines; small icebergs still calve off its face and float down its namesake river.

While eventually the road will reach Parque Nacional Laguna San Rafael, most of the land is private property.  US$3.50 for climbing the trail to its Mirador Exploradores, a 20-minute woodland walk that yields spectacular views from a hilltop deck. More ambitious hikers can contract a full-day ice hike at Tranquilo or here, if guides are available.